Project Time Machine

2012-01-31T11:37:00.003+08:00

Datsun R16 Engine Breather

I'm trying to figure out if I should install an air filter breather on the breather hole just below the exhaust pipe.

2012-01-28T18:24:00.009+08:00

Folia Tec Tow Hook Ring Installation

I finally acquired a front racing tow hook kit for the Fairlady as a requirement for MSCC's vintage racing series. It's a German made and race certified tow hook manufactured by Folia Tec.

German instruction manual and specifications.

The tow hook kit comes with an "L" bracket for mounting horizontally at the front. The unit is lightweight and is made out of Aluminum. It's powder coated as well for durability.

The kit also comes with the necessary lock nuts, washers, and high tensile strength bolts. Sweet.

The installation was pretty straight forward. I installed it in about 15 minutes. The "L" bracket aligned perfectly with the front right bumper mounting hole. The spacing was perfect for the tow hook through the Fairlady's front chin.

High tensile strength bolt already included in the kit.

It looks great and it's functional as well for the race track. Good job!

2012-01-24T16:38:00.002+08:00

Tow Hook Project

I'm planning on installing front and rear tow hooks for the Fairlady as a requirement for the Vintage Sports Car Racing series. Will visit the machine shop and ask if they can fabricate them out of solid aluminum. Should look sweet!

I encircled the possible front tow hook location. I hope the bumper mounts can be used to mount the tow hooks though...will do some research on this.

2012-01-23T21:30:00.003+08:00

January 2012 Maintenance Update:

Installed new spark plugs - customized NGK BP6ES for better ignition. I noticed better and smoother acceleration after installing the new plugs. Readjusted the idle screw and balance screw as well.

I'll need to install an tow hook as well for racing purposes. I'm planning on visiting the machine shop to fabricate the front and rear tow hooks out of a solid chunk of aluminum. It should look sweet as well.

2012-01-16T13:15:00.005+08:00

Service Maintenance for the Fairlady:

1. Engine oil change and new Osaka oil filter cartridge (Ultron Rallye 10W-40 Semi-synthetic)
2. Steering box oil change (Conoco 80w-90 GL-5 Semi-synthetic Gear Oil)
3. Grease suspension and steering fittings
4. Clean fuel and air filters
5. Clean and adjust rear drum brakes
6. Body wash and wax
7. Rustproofing underside and body components

I immediately noticed better throttle response and a smoother idle after changing the engine oil. The steering also became lighter after greasing the suspension and steering fittings and replacing the steering box oil with lighter 80W-90 gear oil compared to the 90W gear oil.

Will replace the spark plugs and contact points asap. Next project would be to install tow hooks in front and at the rear of the roadster.

2011-09-12T17:45:00.003+08:00

November Vintage Race Checklist:

1. Change engine oil and oil filter
2.Check and clean rear brake drums
3. Clean air and fuel filters
4. Clean spark plugs and rotors
5. Check brake and clutch fluid
6. Check transmission & differential oil levels
7. Change steering box fluid
8. Check front wheel alignment

2011-08-23T10:25:00.001+08:00

Competition 4-1 Stainless Steel Headers by Titan Works

Good throttle response from 3,000-6,000 rpm

2011-08-22T13:49:00.001+08:00

Front Disc Brake Overhaul

Front disc brake was leaking fluid so I decided to overhaul the pistons. Turns out that it's full of crud and rust from those years of use. I cleaned the pistons and cylinders and replaced the piston seals and dust covers.

Dirty and rusty cylinder

New piston seal and dust cover awaits

Pitted cylinder walls after sanding with fine sand paper.

Brake piston and cylinder ready for install.

Piston seal and dust cover installed. Used fine sand paper to clean off the surface rust and smooth out the cylinder walls.

Finished installing the pistons, brake lines, and brake pad lock. Drove the Fairlady around to test the brakes. So far no leaks on the lines and bolts.

2011-08-09T10:11:00.007+08:00

Manila Sports Car Club Vintage Race at Clark International Speedway

Ready for some vintage racing action

10 vintage sports cars line up for the start of the MSCC Vintage Race

The busy pit lane as each category prepare for their practice sessions

The Fairlady was a bit twitchy at the rear thanks to the cool track temperatures and lack of grip from the Goodyear NCT5 road tires. A good upgrade would be the Yokohama Neova 185/60/R14 performance tires as pointed out by a fellow vintage racing enthusiast. Power-sliding was fun, but not good for the time sheets. The Fairlady was fairly easy to catch...predictable and progressive.

Brakes were good as well and the cooling system held up pretty good. The set-up was really reliable for occasional track days and daily driving. Roll bar looks great too.

Some exciting vintage racing - 4 wide at the first turn

I felt like a winner...even in last place :)

2011-08-01T09:38:00.006+08:00

Race Prep Check List:

1. Replaced Contact Points: Mitsubishi Contact Point Set Part No. T100T2127
2. Re-adjusted points gap to 0.019" (It was too wide before.)
3. Cleaned air and fuel filter
4. Cleaned spark plugs, rotor, and distributor cap points
5. Lubricated distributor cam lobe
6. Refilled steering box gear oil: Shell Spirax 90W Transmission Oil GL4
7. Tightened steering wheel nut
8. Tightened engine supports
9. Tightened twin carburetor mounting bolts

10. Tightened rear leaf spring locks
11. Tightened lug nuts

12. Cleaned and adjusted rear brake drums
13. Anti-rust coating on steel rims

2011-07-23T11:25:00.013+08:00

4-Point Roll Bar - Nissan Factory Style

Fairlady at SMT for the roll bar fabrication

I had the 4-Point roll bar custom fabricated at SMT in Makati. They used schedule 40, 3mm thick iron tubing with an outer diameter of 45mm. They used 1/4 inch steel plating for the backing plates with held down by 3 bolts for each plate.

Clean welds for the seatbelt mounting brackets

Nice clean fabrication, which clears the soft top mechanism and hood. They also installed a cross beam for the 4-point seat belt mounts, which also acts as a strut to strengthen the rear end of the chassis and roll bar mounting points.

1/4 inch steel plating reinforced by another steel plating underneath, held together by 3 main bolts

Roll bar clears the soft top, good fit underneath

Roll bar is bolted to the factory roll bar mounting points on the body, which directly connects with the chassis underneath.

Still leaves a good room for luggage at the back even with the roll bar installed.

Very clean and precise fabrication work from SMT. And the owners were pleasant to talk to and share ideas with.

Paint was done by CarPath Paint Shop - a primer coat, 4 coats of black, and a clear coat after fine sanding the base coat. Then a whole lot of buffing with rubbing compound to polish the clear coat evenly. Good clean job.

Looks great after the paint job by CarPath. The black roll bar matches with the red paint of the Fairlady.

Cross beam acts as chassis stiffener and seat belt mounts. I even noticed an improvement in the ride after driving around after the roll bar was installed. And this places additional weight in the rear and plants the rear tires for better traction.

Roll bar probably weighs in at 15-20 lbs.

Rear roll bar mount on the left hand side of the chassis mounted with the plating and a bolt to the chassis member

Rear roll bar mount on the right hand side of the chassis

Definitely adds that cafe racer feel to the Fairlady. Functional and stylish at the same time.

Finally, a sweet Nissan Competition Style roll bar for the Fairlady.

2011-07-07T17:57:00.008+08:00

Maintenance and Vintage Race Preparation Update:

Valve Clearance setting for Intake and Exhaust (Hot) was set at 0.016 inch. Valve clearance was too tight before. After the adjustment, I noticed the engine had better "pick-up" or torque at the lower rev range than before. And also, the exhaust note and induction sound of the twin carburetors became more pronounced and raspy. It might be that the valves weren't closing fully because of the tight clearance of the rocker arms with the valve stems.

1. Replaced differential oil with Conoco 80W-90 synthetic blend (old oil looked like crud) - The differential whine was gone after replacing the oil.
2. Overhauled Right Front Dunlop-Sumitomo Mk II disc brake - new caliper kit from TCL (badly corroded cylinder)
3. Adjusted intake and exhaust valve clearance - 0.016 In. (it was too tight before the adjustment, the engine now has better throttle response)
4. Refitted the valve cover gasket (was leaking near the radiator filler neck) with high-temperature silicon gasket.
5. Lubricated the twinside Solex Mikuni PHH40 Type T butterfly shafts and throttle linkages.

6. Fitted a rubberized battery terminal cover for added safety.

7. Greased all suspension and steering fittings - 17 zerks in all at Shell.
8. Tightened all nuts, bolts, and screws.

9. Realigned the front anti-sway bar and refurbished the rubber bushings with Silicon high temperature spray.

10. Fitted new screws for the fuel level float sensor cover in the boot.

Rocker arms seems to be lubricating well. I also had to clean the valve cover gasket and head to fix the small oil leak. The mechanic accidentally placed the gasket the other way around so the cork wasn't sealing properly. Hopefully, not it'll be airtight.

An interesting number on the head "5527D."

2011-05-07T12:49:00.003+08:00

Breakfast With Lolo (Breakfast With Grandpa) Short Film

- Platinum Remi Award at the 2010 WorldFest Houston International Film Festival

- Jury Award at the 180 Microcinema Festival 2010

- Nominated at the Williamsburg Independent Film Festival, Brooklyn, 2010

- Finalist at the Cinemalaya Film Festival 2010

2011-04-27T09:29:00.008+08:00

Maintenance and Repair Updates:

1. Changed engine oil - Petron Rallye Semi Synthetic 10W-40

2. Tested the Osaka EO-502 oil filter

3. Installed Borg Warner air filters

4. Overhauled rear wheel cylinders - new Seiken wheel caps and calibrated rear brake adjusters

5. Changed transmission oil - Castrol EP 80W-90 Gear Oil 2.5L

6. Adjusted clutch slave and clutch pedal

7. Stripped door linings and door handles and installed polycarbonate door cover

The Fairlady due for maintenance and repairs at AutoSport

Overhauled rear brake drums and replaced wheel caps

The leaking rear wheel cylinder (both sides were leaking).

The right brake drum wheel cylinder's piston froze and had to be bored with 1000 sandpaper.

Some fine tuning :) Brake pads are finally aligned.

Lightweight polycarbonate door cover installed - grassroots motor racing at its finest!

Polycarbonate cover - lightweight and durable

Successfully tested the Osaka EO-502 oil filter on the R16 engine, maintained good oil pressure at idle and high RPM.

Installed the Borg Warner twin carb air filters. Looks great as well!

Package included all the installation accessories and was pretty straightforward in assembly and installation.

2" foam air filter was already included in the kit.

Cleaned up the oil filter cover.

Cleaned up the oil filter assembly.

Drain tube and assembly still in good condition and just needed cleaning with brake cleaner. Installation was successful with no leaks so far.

2011-04-19T09:30:00.000+08:00

Sierra Madre Run with the Fairlady

2011-01-24T09:16:00.003+08:00

Restoration Update: New Brake Lines

New galvanized steel brake lines installed and fitted by TitanWorks for the entire brake system. Much harder than the Copper brake lines used before in the Fairlady...so much more safe and better for vintage racing.

Brake lines are neatly integrated unto the firewall.

Nicely bent brake lines...good work by the TitanWorks crew. So far, there hasn't been any leaks throughout the brake system.

2010-12-13T10:38:00.002+08:00

Race Photos from Manila Sports Car Club's Facebook Page

A nice panoramic shot from MSCC, Sprint 2 Group B

The starting grid fro Sprint 2 of Group B...what an exciting race that was. The Fairlady was really "harassing" the Alfa Romea Giulietta on the long corners. If only it had more power so I can out accelerate the 2.o liter twin cam, twin carburetted Alfa after the corners.

Bernard and his guys helped me adjust the steering box on the Fairlady. Thank you so much! This just goes to show how close sports car enthusiasts are even though we've only met on the race day itself.

2010-12-07T08:20:00.003+08:00

Clark Vintage Race Photos from Peter S.

The Fairlady and the Westfield-Lotus Eleven Replica. The Fairlady's chassis and suspension upgrades were able to cope with the tight long right hander. The lowered chassis and stiffer shocks greatly improved the handling characteristics and surprised a few.

Mechanical grip of the heavier Fairlady was superb and at par with the Westfield...surprisingly even with the skinnier 175/65/R14 Goodyear NCT 5 front tires. Rears were 185/70/R14 Goodyear NCT 5's. Using the stock steel wheels were okay with the non-race spec tires. Rear tires weren't rubbing anymore as compared to the Almex YSA alloy wheels I had installed previously.

Racing with the '67 Silver Fairlady - Hitachi-SU carbureted, port and polished head. We were slugging it out and having such a great race! I even had the Fairlady drifting at the straight after overtaking the Silver Fairlady. Luckily, I was able to countersteer and correct the drift or else... The Fairlady's handling characteristic was very forgiving...no snap oversteer. And it enabled me to build up my confidence as the race progressed...and even being able to race with the much faster 2 liter race prepared Alfa Romeo Giulietta in Heat 2.

Acceleration was better with the twin side Solex Mikuni powered Fairlady, but the clutch was already slipping especially going from 2nd to 3rd gear at full power. The 2nd gear synchro was also making noises and I had to double de-clutch to smoothly engage 2nd...successfully in several cases. I definitely need more practice!

My favorite shot from Peter...a warmed-up sandwich after an exhausting, but exciting race.

Thank you Peter for the memorable photos. Cheers!

2010-12-01T10:58:00.005+08:00

Clark International Speedway MSCC Vintage Race - November 28, 2010

2010-11-23T23:15:00.003+08:00

Restoration Update

1. New Front Shock Absorbers - Hurst (Fluid Type)
2. New Rear Shock Absorbers - KYB Gas Adjust
3. Refurbished Rear Leaf Springs
4. Lowered Front Springs by 1 inch
5. New Koyo Rear Axle Bearings
6. New Axle Oil Seals
7. New Axle Spacers
8. Replaced Differential Fluid - 90W
9. Reconfigured Rear Brake Cylinders
10. New Front and Rear Suspension Bushings
11. Installed Aluminum Alloy Lowering Blocks - 1.5 inches
12. New U-bolts
13. Powder Coated OEM Steel Rims
14. Wheel Balancing
15. Refurbished Lower Suspension Arms - New Bolts
16. Grease Fittings
17. New Ball Joint Seals
18. Refurbished Upper and Lower Ball Joints
19. Cleaned Fuel Filter
20. New Brake Master Cylinder - Fujiura Ltd.
21. Stainless Steel Brake Master Cylinder Nuts, Bolts, and Washers
22. Repainted Brake Master Cylinder Mounting Plate
23. New Vent Down Pipe Seals
24. Wheel Alignment and Camber Adjustment
25. New Upper A-arm Bump Stops
26. Re-greased Suspension Fittings
27. Adjusted Steering Box Play
28. Adjusted Brake Master Cylinder Pusher

2010-11-19T18:14:00.003+08:00

New Fujiura 15/16 Inch Brake Master Cylinder

Replaced the old rusty nuts and bolts with stainless steel ones

The old brake master cylinder that took a beating during the last vintage race...it developed a leak

2010-11-04T11:33:00.003+08:00

'65 Datsun Fairlady Cafe Racer

An awesome photo by Martin Galãn of the Manila Sports Car Club at the Subic International Raceway Vintage Race last July

2010-11-02T17:22:00.007+08:00

Fairlady Finally Lowered!

Lowered the front by 2 inches, 5 inches from the front chassis frame to the ground

Lowered the rear by 1.5 inches using the aluminum alloy lowering blocks

2010-10-31T09:40:00.004+08:00

Suspension Lowering Updates:

2010-10-18T11:20:00.003+08:00

Suspension Upgrade Updates:

Machined Lower Suspension Arm (Spindles and Bolts)

Machined Ball Joints (Lower and Upper)

New KYB Gas-Adjust Shocks

New Propeller Shaft (Gauge 40 & TIG Welded)

2010-09-28T20:54:00.003+08:00

Race Modification Updates & Misc. Repairs:

1. Install newly powder coated front springs (c/o East Coast Roadster)
2. Install Gabriel Hurst Dual Duty front shock absorbers (Drive or Drag settings) - Part No. 600 9965
3. Install newly refurbished rear leaf springs (new Secondary)
4. Install KYB Gas-A-Just rear gas shock absorbers - Part No. 553095 (KG4804)
5. New Koyo Axle Bearings, Oil Seals, Spacers, and Lock Bearings

Photos of the goodies below:

KYB Gas-A-Just Rear Shock Absorbers:

Gabriel Hurst Dual Duty Front Shock Absorbers (USA):

New Front Spring Pads

Refurbished Leaf Springs (new bushings and secondary)

Newly Powder Coated Front Springs from Eastcoast Roadster Dave

New Koyo Axle Bearings

New Lock Bearings

2010-09-17T21:15:00.003+08:00

Powder Coated OEM Steel Rims

Just got these back from Chrome Dazzler. Powder coated the rims with Aluminum finish for the stock look. Can't wait to install these along with the front springs, re-arched rear leaf springs, and a set of new KYB shock absorbers!

Mechanical repairs include transmission and differential overhaul, new clutch, and new brake master. Darn!

My Last Lap

2010-09-05T21:25:00.000+08:00

2010-08-02T08:16:00.008+08:00

"Last Lap" Event at the Subic International Raceway - July 31

Breakfast with Lolo Trailer Final 24P.mov

2010-05-25T12:20:00.000+08:00

"Breakfast with Lolo" Trailer for the Cinemalaya Film Festival, Philippines
The short film will be competing in the Short Feature Film Competition in July.

2010-05-23T07:52:00.002+08:00

"Breakfast with Lolo" makes it to the Cinemalaya Short Feature Film Competition

2010-05-07T13:18:00.000+08:00

Craving for Nostalgia

2010-04-28T20:13:00.002+08:00

R16 Engine Start Up

Datsun R16 3 main bearing engine 1.6L
Twin 40mm Mikuni PHH40 Type T carburetors
Custom stainless steel intake manifold
Custom stainless steel 4-1 headers
Custom stainless steel 2" exhaust piping and brackets
Custom stainless steel 2" freeflow resonator
Custom stainless steel 2" to 3" megaphone tip

2010-04-21T21:22:00.003+08:00

Throttle Shaft Issue in the Rear Carburetor

2010-04-19T18:12:00.001+08:00

Center Clamp Mounting Point

2010-04-02T10:59:00.005+08:00

Maintenance and Carburetor Tuning

I also removed the front and rear bumpers to have them re-chromed again at Chrome Dazzler (still under warranty). I haven't put them back ever since I removed them last January...waiting for the vintage racing series to start the season. And also to follow the Lotus philosophy: "Add lightness." I'll put the bumpers back, but probably after I get to race the Fairlady.

I just recently replaced the "fried" contact point. The engine wasn't starting the other night. With newly cleaned and rebuilt twin carburetors, I greatly suspected that it was an ignition problem. The next day, I also replaced the Bosch condenser with another NOS one. Engine still wouldn't start so next up was the contact points. After replacing it, the engine fired right up and idled really high. It seems that the spark was much hotter, thus giving more horsepower at idle than it was with the old contact point.

I also used the same Mitsubishi brand of contact points to replace the old one. I cleaned up the cam lobe in the distributor and applied the white grease included with the contact point. I also cleaned the rotor tips as well as the metal tips in the distributor cap with sand paper..they were covered with some sort of white dust.

I then adjusted the spring tension in the butterfly valves to ease up the pedal pressure by putting another hole much nearer to the bolt to bring the spring much closer to the throttle lever. This will hopefully keep the valves from bending/flexing when it's being opened or closed. I also reset the balance on the carburetors and adjusted the idle to about 1,300-1,500 rpm...a bit higher than before. The reason for this is to keep the oil pressure high at idle at around 50-60 PSI so that oil circulation will be adequate. I noticed that at the original idle of about 1,000-1,200 rpm, the oil pressure was at 40 PSI. It's still okay I suppose, but I just wanted to make sure that more oil was reaching the cams and other internal parts at idle for proper lubrication. I also adjusted the pilot jets about 3 turns to keep the carburetors from backfiring.

I had a nice morning drive with my dad today. The engine was performing very well. It was running really smooth especially at 3,000 rpm down the highway at about 80 km/h. The engine had good pull even in 4th gear at an incline going up the flyover in C5, Libis. Pedal pressure was so much improved and smoother. Before it was just like an on-off switch! Backfiring from the carburetors were considerably reduced and the exhaust now has a nice burble at deceleration. I can now also keep the engine at a steady pace of 3,000 rpm. Before it was shuddering and wouldn't want to cruise nicely along the highway. Great performance today from the Mikuni R16! Can't wait to drive the roadster again and keep on grinning!

2010-03-28T10:40:00.001+08:00

Rear Latch Mounting on OEM Hardtop

2010-03-22T11:54:00.002+08:00

Hardtop Restoration Begins

I removed all the latches from the top. Rusted, but thankful that the screws were easily removed after soaking them with lubricant spray.

Rear latch mounting bracket

2010-03-21T18:19:00.003+08:00

Original Datsun Fairlady Hardtop Photos

I decided to take some shots of the hardtop for documentation purposes. I'm planning on restoring it once again with a new color...white, black or red.

2010-03-16T17:02:00.001+08:00

Top Gear Philippines Features Project Time Machine

2010-03-09T20:53:00.003+08:00

Mikuni PHH40 Re-installation

One down. I just took my time re-installing the carburetors.

It was pretty much straightforward. Just had to put a thin layer of gasket maker on the isolator's surface prior to bolting the carburetors on the intake manifold.

Presto! Twin Mikuni carburetors finally installed and running well! I just had to tweak the Pilot Screws and the Idle Screw for a smoother idle. Engine runs great and smooth throughout the rev range. I can't wait to test it further in long road trips.

I also repainted the inner left engine bay where the air horns are to protect the metal from rust and backfires. Gas pedal is a bit firm though...maybe it just needs to be stretched out and used more often! Fun run!

I also cleaned up the new Purolator in-line fuel filter I added a few months ago. It was full of dirt and gunk from the fuel tank!

Bought it at an old auto supply shot selling new old stock parts and accessories for old school rides. This is a good quality fuel filter that can easily be cleaned and reused. Looks good too...adds to the vintage feel of the engine bay.

2010-03-06T16:27:00.004+08:00

New Stainless Steel Nuts, Bolts, Washers, and Screws

New stainless steel nuts, bolts, and washers to mount the carbs on the intake flange

New stainless steel screws and washers for the Mikuni PHH40's

I can't wait to put the new screws and bolts into the carbs! Should look sweet!

New screws look great and are definitely more durable

I hope everything works well upon re-installation in the engine!

I also cleaned up the air horns with carb cleaner to remove the fuel stains.

2010-03-05T18:19:00.003+08:00

Cleaned Up Mikuni PHH40 Carburetors

I had a hard time using the wire brush to remove the dirt and gunk from the surface of the carburetor. I used a 3M carb cleaner, soaked the carbs for a few minutes, and brushed the dirt off...very effective, but time consuming. But it's worth it.

I'll be buying new screws and bolts before I install the carbs to the engine. I'll try to find stainless steel ones for durability. I can't wait to attach the Mikunis and drive away!

2010-03-03T20:04:00.006+08:00

Mikuni Carburetor Cleaning

It was such a pain removing two screws from the right side of both front and rear carburetors! I had to use a Dremel to grind new and deeper grooves. And then I had to buy the biggest screwdriver I could find that would fit those grooves. Man! What a nightmare! But at least it's all done...I finally was able to open the float chamber and check out the needle valve.

Nice and tidy...polishing will be next!

The needle valve on the rear carb was rusty. I'm soaking it in carburetor spray solution overnight to flush out the rusted areas. The tip looks in good condition so I'll just clean it up and put it back into the valve.

Needle Valve Assembly

The foam floats of both carbs seem to be in good nick condition.

Float Chamber seems to be clean in both carbs. I'll clean them out again before re-installation

One of the problematic screws. Notice how deep I had to grind with the Dremel just to get ample grip and leverage for the screwdriver!

Dremel saves the day once again.

Ready to rumble!

The beautiful TitanWorks custom stainless steel intake manifold and header.

Taking out the carbs was pretty much straightforward. I hope the re-installation is the same as well!

I accidentally destroyed the groove on one of the screws rendering it useless.

2009-11-29T11:29:00.002+08:00

Manila Sports Car Club Rainy Meet: Only for the brave ones!

2009-11-09T12:36:00.005+08:00

Sunday Driving with Dave

Dave's Datsun 2000 with twin SU's

Mountain Pass in Kenilworth, NJ

Cool 8 Ball detailing

U20, twin SU, EI Dizzy, 1.5" headers, 2" exhaust

Awesome leather wrapped anodized aluminum steering wheel

West Coast Roadster

Dave's Manufacturing Facility

2009-09-05T22:55:00.004+08:00

"Breakfast with Lolo" Short Film

I just want to share to you a short film I made for a local film festival where I also featured the roadster. They posted it on their website. It's about my experience with my lolo before he passed away. Anyway, I hope you like it! :)

Here's the link to the short film:

http://180cinema.net/?p=281

2009-07-25T08:07:00.002+08:00

4-Point Racing Seatbelt Installation

For added safety, I had 4-point seatbelts installed to the roadster. Safer indeed when compared to the old 2-point lap-belts that was previously installed.

Looks great as well! Cafe racer look for the roadster!

Fabrication of the mounting bracket and installation of the belts was done by Speedmode. Professionally done and well though of. They even had to remove the seats to install the belts.

Nice clean design and fabrication work. Speedmode used high tensile strength bolts to hold down the bracket to the chassis underneath. They also welded a stainless steel rod underneath the bracket to strengthen it and keep it from flexing and stress.

Back view looks clean and it doesn't clutter the rear shelf, which is good for added storage space. Looks good too when the top is down!

2009-07-12T08:07:00.005+08:00

Race Preparations for Classic Car Race in Batangas Racing Circuit on July 19

R16 Engine and Solex Mikuni PHH40 already tuned by "Race Guru" Fil Gulfin

Bought an OGK RSN (Japan) fullface race helmet. Fits great!

Shell and interior lining/fabric are still in very good condition...breath guard already included.

OGK RSN

Will also tighten all the screws/bolts in the body to prevent parts from falling off during the race! I also need to have the suspension bolts checked and tightened.

I also bought a set of HD Kai racing brake pads. These pads have an operating temperature from 0 to 500 degrees celsius, which is more than adequate for street and track-day use. Had them ordered from Japan c/o Speedmode.

These babies are quite hard to find and get. This was one of the last two remaining in stock at the Japanese manufacturer's inventory. If I have the budget and if the braking performance is great, I plan to buy the last set!

I had them installed at Speedmode for only P300. I also had the brake fluid replaced for P1,000 only...considering that they had to remove and clean the calipers and pistons. They also used a pneumatic device that sucked all the dirty brake fluid from the entire brake system and piston chamber. The brake fluid was already dark from dirt and grime!

I can't wait to try them out on the street and especially on the track on Sunday! I hope they perform well especially with a price tag of P7,000 per set! Expensive indeed, but safety first!

2009-06-30T13:26:00.004+08:00

Sunday Fun Run

Here's a short film I made about our fun run adventure driving the Fairlady roadster:

2009-06-23T20:54:00.003+08:00

Carburetor and Engine Tuning by Race Guru Fil Gulfin

Finally, Fil had an open schedule today for tuning the Fairlady. New jet settings: Pilot Jet - 52.5, Main Air Jet - 170. Hopefully, fuel consumption will also improve.

Cleaned and checked all the Mikuni PHH40 parts and assemblies. Found a number of blocked jets and leaking parts. The pilot screws have been replaced with the correct Mikuni screws. The previous screws were from a Weber carburetor!

The butterfly valves were still in good condition and are sealing well. The grooves on the rubber isolators have been sealed shut instead of just using rubber tubing as what the previous shop did during the last overhaul.

The timing was also adjusted since it was retarded. The timing advance mechanism was also checked. Valve clearance was also tweaked.

New NGK BP6ES spark plugs have also been installed. The idle is so much smoother and the throttle response is insane! There's more power in the engine and low end torque also improved. Top end power has greatly increased and also much smoother. The induction noise and exhaust tone is so much more addictive!

2009-06-19T17:23:00.004+08:00

Resto-Mod & Restoration Updates:

Fairlady @ Caltex

Re-jetting of Mikuni PHH40 twin side carburetors and engine tuning by Fil Gulfin - still waiting for Fil's call
Ordered a set of HD Kai semi-race front disc brake pads (0-500 degrees Celsius) from Japan c/o Speedmode - P7,000 for the set
Greased zerks at Caltex
Planning on buying Sparco 4-point racing harness - found a supplier that is selling it for only P2,700 each
Planning on re-grinding the disc rotors and flushing the brake fluid prior to installing the new set of racing brake pads...when I get it hopefully in 2-3 weeks time.
Had an oil change using Valvoline's 10w40 DuraBlend (Synthetic Blend) oil
Had recently cleaned and sanded both rear drum brakes and pads

2009-05-19T11:38:00.003+08:00

Mikuni PHH40 Tuning Update: Pilot Jets

I finally received the 52.5 Pilot Jets from RM Carburetors. Rodger was a great help with the parts that I needed. He even included cool racing stickers. I'm planning to have these installed ASAP at Fil Gulfin's shop. Can't wait to see the results! I hope fuel economy improves a bit, but more especially a better throttle response from idle to 3,000 rpm!

2009-04-02T15:22:00.005+08:00

Restoration Update: Custom Stainless Steel Exhaust System

Stainless Steel Flex Pipe 2"

Custom Stainless Steel Free Flow Resonator by Titan Works
Dimensions: 20" x 6" x 3"

Stainless steel piping goes under the differential for better exhaust flow

Custom Stainless Steel Megaphone Tip by Alfred's Auto Restoration Shop along Kamuning
Fabricator: Jimmy
2" Inlet - 2.5" Outlet

Roy, superb fabricator and TIG welder at Titan Works, fitting the final pieces of the exhaust system. I'm really impressed with the quality of the workmanship and stainless steel gauge used. Even the exhaust piping brackets were made of stainless steel.

The finished product! Looks and sounds great! It als enhances the driving experience...not to mention it really improved the exhaust flow. The piping after the resonator went under the differential instead of going over it, which also improved the exhaust flow.

I'll still have to have the twin carburetors re-jetted and balanced at Fil Gulfin's shop.

2008-12-15T00:20:00.003+08:00

Carburetor Tuning Updates and New Clutch Master Cylinder

Cleaning up the spark plugs early in the morning

Normally, the engine runs a rich air-fuel mixture due to the poorly tuned twin side draught Mikuni PHH40 Type T's. I've been struggling with the carburetor balance and pilot screw settings, which results to a dark sooty layer on the spark plugs. But when I inspected the plugs this morning, all the plugs had a tan to light brown color. This indicated that the air-fuel mixture was balanced and the Mikuni carburetors were at the optimal air-fuel mixture settings.

I hope this air-fuel mixture tuning can be sustained for better fuel economy and performance.

When I was driving last night, I did notice an improvement in engine performance especially with regards to torque. The engine "pulled" better, which meant faster acceleration on the highway. I really hope this optimal air-fuel mixture setting doesn't change at all!

Finally, a light brown color on the plugs, which indicates a balanced air-fuel mixture.

Surprisingly, the spark plug in cylinder two also indicated a clean burn, since it was always fouling due to a rich carburetor setting. I'd always clean the plug, since it was covered with unburnt fuel and wouldn't fire at all.

New Sam Clutch Master Cylinder (Japan made)

I also recently replaced the clutch master cylinder, since it was always leaking at the fire wall. Being that brake fluid is highly corrosive this is really bad, since the fluid will literally "eat-away" on the metal parts especially the left inner fender and the firewall. So far no signs of leaks with the new Sam clutch master installed. Pedal feel is still light, which is good for stop-and-go traffic.

2008-09-06T09:36:00.007+08:00

Mikuni PHH40 Type T Overhaul, Exhaust Wrap on Headers, and Tuning

After the overhaul, I haven't been able to tune the Mikuni PHH40's correctly and this was evident, since there was smoke coming out of the exhaust and the smell of unburnt fuel was unmistakable. Not to mention that the spark plugs would often foul even just after two drives.

So I decided to have the twin carburetors tuned at Q.C. Tires in Banawa, which is a reputable tuning shop specifically for these kinds of carburetors and old school rides. Mang Orly, the owner of the shop, was actually the one who tuned the carbs after it had been overhauled.

I also had exhaust wraps installed over the headers to minimize the radiant heat and to cool down the Mikuni carbs. Total labor cost was at P3,400. Pricey indeed, but it was definitely worth it! Now there's only a hint of smoke from the carbs if you really look closely...it's barely noticable. And the irritating smoke of unburnt fuel is greatly minimized.

Bought a roll of exhaust wrap (50 ft.) at Banawe for P1,400.

Disassembled the headers in preparation for the exhaust wrap installation.

Exhaust wrap installation. I used stainless steel ties (Japan) to keep the wrap firmly in place over the headers

Headers and exhaust wrap installed. Clean workmanship.

Overhauled the Mikuni PHH40 Twin Carburetors

Every screw, bolt, and jets were disassembled and cleaned. They were very meticulous in their work...I was indeed imppressed.

They even dipped the carbs in a bucket full of corrosive chemicals to completely remove the dirt.

I also removed the air socks as it was consticting the air flow into the carbs. The engine does look more "racey" with the exhaust wraps installed IMHO.

The finished product.

My next project is to replace the clutch master and also have the carburetors properly jetted. There's a hesitation when I reach 2,500 rpm so I'll have to address that in the near future. But for now, I'm good!

2008-08-11T18:23:00.006+08:00

Datsun Fairlady Periodic Maintenance

About a week ago, I had the Fairlady roadster go through the periodic maintenance after the two month break-in period. I replaced the oil filter, engine oil, transmission oil, and differential oil. I also topped up the steering box with differential oil and had all the suspension fittings greased. I also had the front left tire checked, since it was losing pressure steadily...turned out there was a small leak at the rim of the wheel.

For the engine oil, I changed from using 10W-40 Castrol Magnatec to 10W-40 Havoline Synthetic Blend (API-SM), which is a bit more expensive (around P1,500 per gallon). I have to admit, there's a noticeable difference with the Havoline. The morning start-ups are much easier and the revolution of the engine is much faster via the starter motor. The Havoline is a long drain oil that's recommended for turbocharged engines and off-road use, which will definitely do good in protecting the engine components when I rev the engine up to 6,000 rpm!

As for the transmission oil, I changed from Conoco 80W-90 (GL-5) to Castrol EP 80W-90 (GL-4). The shifting immediately lightened and the synchro noise from 1st to 2nd gear has lessened. The old transmission oil was still clear, which points out that the transmission casing is still well sealed.

For the differential oil, I changed from Conoco SAE 140 to Castrol LSX90 Axle Oil (GL-5). The heavy duty Castrol Axle Oil is much lighter and is actually the oil viscosity recommended by the service manual. This oil is actually for limited slip differentials, which should take good care of the differential for those spirited driving moments in the Fairlady!

Also topped up the steering box with Castrol LSX90 for good measure.

So far, Project Time Machine is running well and hard without any problems. My next project might be is to install a stainless steel exhaust with a flex pipe and a megaphone tip! And my dad keeps nagging me to install rollbars so I'll have to put that in the list as well. That's it for now! KG (Karmann Ghia) Slayer reporting for duty!

2008-07-07T23:09:00.004+08:00

Almex YSA Wheels

I've been looking for the right set of wheels to replace the steel ones on the Fairlady and only until last Sunday did I get to buy the perfect set for my roadster. I bought a set of old school Almex YSA wheels for just P7,000 (from P8,500) from Abel Tire Supply Shop along 20th Avenue. I'd say that's quite a bargain considering the wheels are quite rare and have only been refurbished about a month ago. I really like the "Iron Cross" design plus the Black color with silver trim. It definitely makes it more "kick-ass."

The wheels are made in Japan by "Yokohama Rubber" as posted at the back. It's light as well. Here are the specifications: 14" x 5.5" PCD 114. The front wheels have been balanced and a 1/4" spacer was installed at the front hubs (included in the price) to correct the spacing between the wheels and hub. The spacers did widen the track a bit by half an inch. The good thing was I didn't have to buy a new set of tires as I just used the ones I had on the stock steel wheels.

I've been driving the Fairlady for a few days now and I can say that handling and ride comfort have improved. Steering pressure is much lighter.

All in all, the Almex YSA wheels were definitely a very good find! And the roadster looks meaner indeed.

2008-07-01T21:15:00.007+08:00

Restoration Update: Engine Overhaul Finally Finished!

About three weeks ago, I finally got Project Time Machine from R and R where the R16 engine was overhauled. Here's the list of things done during and after the engine overhaul:

1. New Main Engine Bearings
2. New Connecting Rod Bearings
3. New Piston Pin Bushings
4. New Piston Rings
5. New Timing Chain
6. New Intake and Exhaust Valves
7. New Valve Seals
8. New Gaskets
9. New Fuel Pump

10. New Hight Tension Wires
11. New Distributor Cap
12. New Contact Point
13. New Condenser
14. New Ignition Coil (Hitachi)

15. New Fan Belt
16. New Engine Supports
17. New Spark Plugs
18. Head and Block Test
19. Crankshaft Polishing
20. Gas Tank Cleaning
21. Brake and Clutch Fluid Flushing
22. Adjust Rear Brake Drums
23. Trunk Rustproofing

24. New Fuel Hose
25. Cleaned Fuel Filter and Fuel Line
26. Installed Jamex Air Socks

27. New Alternator Mount Bracket

28. New Carburetor Linkage Springs and Brackets

29. New Camshaft Bearings
30. New Piston Sleeves

And (31.) a kick-ass set of newly refurbished (14" PCD 114 Offset 5.5") old-school wheels by Almex (Yokohama Tire Co.) - Model YSA (Made in Japan)

I spent the first two weeks troubleshooting the carburetor backfire and engine stalling issues. I thought it was a failing ignition coil, but I eventually found out that the culprit was a badly degraded and deformed fuel hose in the gas tank, which was disrupting the fuel pressure into the Mikuni Type T carburetors.

Now the only issue is that the Type T's are running a bit rich. I'll have to have them tuned (pilot jets may need to be resized).

2008-05-26T08:21:00.004+08:00

R16 Overhaul Update

The engine overhaul is almost finished. The R16 has already been mounted in the chassis and, hopefully, by today it's ready to be started for the first time after almost four months in "hibernation."

I had to buy another crankshaft packing rope since the one included in the gasket kit was too big to fit perfectly in the slot. I bought the correct size at Fernando's Auto Supply for P150. I also bought a new spark plug cable (Seiwa brand) for P450.

2008-04-23T18:40:00.006+08:00

Overhaul Update: Main Bearings from Canada

Correct main bearing set shipment...at last!

Old Center Main Bearing (Left Side) New Center Main Bearing (Right Side)

New Main Bearing (Left Side) Old Main Bearing (Right Side)

Finally, the correct three main bearing set has arrived from Sports Imports (c/o Ross Mullen) located in Vancouver, Canada. Actually, I already received the main bearing set way back on March 24, but disastrously it was the wrong main bearing specification. It was a totally different set and wasn't for an R16 engine. So I had to send back the main bearings and Ross had to ship the correct ones the next day (March 25).

Wrong Three Main Engine Bearing Set...bummer!

Unfortunately, the package arrived nearly a month after (the Q.C. Central Post Office notice just arrived yesterday) and the overhaul has been delayed for quite some time. The only consolation was that I just paid P35 for the inspection fee...no more customs duties (previous shipment cost me P1,500+ for the importation tax!).

It's been quite a busy day as I had to go back and forth from R and R to the machine shop in Timog (A. Roque) a couple of times to haul the needed parts. I also bought new valve seals (P250 - 8 pieces) and a complete valve set (P950) from Fernando's Auto Supply in Aurora Blvd...good thing I didn't have any problems looking for the parts.

New Set of Valves (8 pieces)

I also brought the needed parts to the machine shop: main bearings, con-rod bearings, camshaft bearings, valves, and valve seals. I hope they finish the fitting of the parts by next week. The guys at A. Roque check-out and measured the new parts first to make sure I had brought the correct specifications. So far so good.

Old Intake (Big) and Exhaust (Small) Valves

New Exhaust Valve (Japan made)

I was tempted to have the head port polished, but it would cost another P3,960 for the job. I'll have to take a rain check on that one...until I get the budget.

I can't wait to drive my Fairlady!!!

2008-03-13T10:28:00.004+08:00

Heat Resistant Paint on Intake Manifold and Headers

Sanded down first the flanges for a smooth surface

I changed the color of the custom made integrated intake manifold and headers from Blue to Dark Red to compliment the body color of the Fairlady. It does look nicer.

Painted the flanges using a 1500 degree Fahrenheit heat resistant paint made in Holland. I also painted the oil filter cover, alternator brackets, and engine mount.

I'm planning to paint also the throttle bracket, oil pan, steel fuel line, fan blades, cowl, thermostat tower, and radiator. I hope to get the engine block painted with the same color, but I'll have to talk to the machine shop.

2008-03-13T01:34:00.004+08:00

New Parts Update: Engine Support Mounts and Camshaft Bearings

New Engine Mount

Surprisingly, Topmost Auto Supply Shop was able to find engine mounts for the R16 engine. Amazing what a little canvasing can accomplish! Price was P400 each for a total of P800 for two mounts. This would cost up to $90 in the U.S for a pair of mounts.

Old Engine Mount (Left) & New Engine Mount (Right)

New Engine Mount (Left) & Old Engine Mount (Right)

I also bought Camshaft bearings (STD size) as required by the machine shop (A. Roque Machine Shop - located in Timog, Quezon City). Bought it at Fernando's Auto Supply. I think the cost was P250 for the set.

I also ordered the 0.010" 3 main engine bearing set from Sports Imports located in Canada. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the bearing set anywhere here in Metro Manila. The overhaul project is really getting delayed, which is bad since the brakes and other parts might get stuck (keeping my fingers crossed that it'll be okay after not being used for some time) so I had to order it abroad.

The owner of Sports Imports, Ross Mullen, was easy to communicate with. Ordered the set today and he says that he'll deliver it "this morning." I opted for the "Xpresspost International" (7 business days delivery time). Total bill was $180 ($125 for the bearing set and $55 for the freight cost). I can't wait to get my hands on the bearings and finish the overhaul project!!!

2008-02-27T16:29:00.006+08:00

New Parts Update for R16 Overhaul:

New Kyosan Denki Fuel Pump

Old Kyosan Denki Fuel Pump

I bought a new Kyosan Denki Fuel Pump to replace the old one. I bought the same brand, but it's a bit different. The cam levers have different patterns and the fuel inlet and outlet locations are also different. The diaphragm chamber diameter are the same.

The one I bought was for a Nissan Cedric 200C engine. I believe the 200C is an H20 variant. I also compared pictures from Datsun Roadster vendors and the replacement Kyosan Denki fuel pumps have a similar cam lever pattern.

New Kyosan Denki Fuel Pump

Old Kyosan Denki Fuel Pump

I got the fuel pump unit from Topmost Auto Supply along Aurora Blvd. right across Toyota Cubao. Cost was P1,800 with the spacer and gaskets included. I hope it works!

New Kyosan Denki Fuel Pump

Old Kyosan Denki Fuel Pump

2008-02-24T15:49:00.008+08:00

R16 Overhaul Update: New Parts

Bought Nissan H20 "dished" pistons thinking that it would be alright to use in the R16 engine. The R16 and H20 piston bore is the same at 87 mm, but the dished layout used on the H20 will decrease the compression ratio of the engine to 8:1, which will hurt performance. The stock R16 pistons have a 9:1 ratio so I decided to stick with the old pistons and just re-sleeve the block to bring back the compression.

R16 "domed" piston (above) & H20 "dished" piston (below)

I'll be using the H20 liners (above) to re-sleeve the R16 block and keep the standard compression ratio of 9:1. I hope they work out just fine, since I figured that the bore of both engines are the same. Keeping my fingers crossed!

I also had a hard time looking for the R16's 3 main bearings. Unfortunately, the H20 main bearings cannot be used with the 3 main bearing R16. It can only be used to R16's that are the 5 main bearing type. Hopefully, the machine would be able to refurbish or manufacture a set. Keeping my fingers crossed again!

H20 Piston Rings - I hope they work with the R16 "domed" pistons!

Piston Pin Bushings for the H20

Bought H20 Con Rod Bearings which are 0.25mm oversize. Based from forum readings (www.311s.org) these can be used with the R16 Con Rods. The machine shop honed the crankshaft to smoothen out the streaks caused by wear thus 0.25mm is needed to compensate for the smaller crankshaft diameter for the Con Rods.

Timing Chain Replacement

H20 Full Gasket Set - Based from the 311s' forum, this should be ok to use on the R16 as the gasket patterns and oils seals are the same.

New Old Stock Distributor Cap Replacement - Transparent! This should be interesting!

Damage report on the parts:

1. H20 Cylinder Liners = P3,300
2. H20 Piston Rings = P1,800
3. H20 Complete Gasket Set = P2,100
4. Timing Chain Replacement = P380
5. H20 Con Rod Bearings = P850
6. Piston Pin Bushings = P450
7. NGK BP6ES x 4 = P260
8. Daichi Distributor Cap = P300
9. Oil Filter x 2 = P110
10. Kyosan Denki Fuel Pump = P1,800
11. Auto Ace Spark Plug Cables = P350

Total Damages (not including overhaul and machining cost!) = P11,700 (Ouch! - still looking for new main bearings)

2008-02-14T16:48:00.004+08:00

Restoration Update: R16 Engine Overhaul

I left the Fairlady last Monday at R and R for the engine overhaul. Today, I went back to the shop to get the parts that need to be replaced. It's a long shopping list! Here it is:

R16 Domed Pistons - 4 pieces
R16 Piston Ring Set - 4 sets
R16 Gasket Set
Main Crankshaft Bearing Set
Timing Chain
Con Rod Bearings - 4 pieces
Piston Pin Bushings - 4 pieces
Timing Cover Oil Seal
Rear Rope Seal
Oil Filter

Fortunately, I was able to find an auto supply shop, Topmost (across Toyota Cubao), that was able to find the hard to find parts! Hopefully, if everything goes according to plan, I'll be able to get the new and original parts by tomorrow. The sad thing is that all in all it'll cost P10,130 for the new parts! Well, at least it's still cheaper than ordering from the United States...about P22,000 cheaper! Still keeping my fingers crossed!

2008-02-10T18:53:00.000+08:00

Mikuni Twin-side Carburetor Project

Finally, I was able to bring home Project Time Machine with the newly installed Mikuni 40mm PHH Type T Twin-side carburetors! The stainless steel intake manifold and 4-1 headers are awesome! The engine has turned into a beast! I was grinning all the way home as I drove the Fairlady...that was really something. The sad part is that I have to overhaul the engine. The reason being the 3 and 4 cylinders have low compression (only 60 psi each). Compression tests and valve adjustments for intake and exhaust show that the piston rings are probably the culprit.

But even thought the R16 engine is just running on two cylinders (compression of about 130 psi each), the acceleration is still phenomenal especially with the deafening intake roar at 5,000 rpm speeding through traffic at 100 kph! It's really a special experience!

I might start on the overhaul tomorrow. I'll be leaving the car at R and R auto shop with, Rene, the shop's manager. Estimated labor cost for the overhaul is pegged at P8,000 plus machine shop cost of another P8,000. As for parts, I'll be the one buying to get the cheapest price possible. I do hope that parts are still available! I'll be keeping my fingers crossed!

Even now, the grin on my face just won't go away. I can't wait to take the Fairlady out for a spin again! Man, what a drive that was!

2008-01-30T16:16:00.001+08:00

Intake Manifold Fabrication and Headers

Finished product by ERL Motorwerx

Good tig weld workmanship

I visited ERL Motorwerx today and took a picture of the custom integrated stainless steel intake manifold and header. All I could say is...it's a work of art! I can't wait to see the finished product! The shop is finalizing the designs. They had to make several versions of the manifold, which means that all previous manifolds had to be junked! They are really meticulous with their fabrication...good job so far!

Fantastic fabrication work on the intake manifold and headers!

Header side

2008-01-26T19:13:00.001+08:00

Jamex Power Sock Air Filters

I was able to buy POD Filters or Air Socks from Speedmode for P2,200 (P550 each). Originally, the price is at P650 each, but since I'm buying four pieces they gave me a good discount. Not bad! The air socks are made by Jamex of Holland. It's pre-oiled already and comes with the necessary bits for installation. This type of air filters actually cost AUD$40+ in Australia (roughly P1,440 a pair or P2,880 for four pieces). I was planning to buy from Unifilter in Australia, but good thing I found Speedmode.

Speedmode contact details:
Address: 21-B E. Rodriguez Sr. Avenue, Quezon City, Philippines 1111
Telephone: 416-7894, 749-8377
Email: speedmode@skyinet.net
Website: www.speedmode.com.ph

2008-01-26T18:29:00.000+08:00

Intake Manifold and Header Fabrication

I dropped by ERL Motorwerx today to check out the stainless steel intake manifold and header fabrication. It's still not finished, since the shop manager, Andrew, is very meticulous when it comes to the fabrication work. The Mikuni-Solex carbs already have the mounting plate installed, but has no piping yet. The flanges are also being fabricated at the moment.

I had to replace the cast iron headers, since it's intruding on the intake manifold installation. The good thing is that their also using stainless steel for the headers, which will definitely improve performance and reliability. Sad thing is...it'll cost P8,000 more! For a total of P20,000! Yeepy! I hope that already includes the linkages. But I guess their workmanship is really good...as high performance cars (Evo's, Silvia's, BMW's, a Supra, etc.), are having turbos and other high-performance intake and exhaust systems installed at the shop.

Intake Manifold Mounting Plate

I'll also be buying thermo wraps for the header and intake to keep the temperatures low inside the hood and for better exhaust flow, which also means more horsepower! I really do hope everything turns out well and worth the wait (and the price...of course)!

2008-01-15T22:20:00.001+08:00

Intake Manifold Fabrication

Today, I left the Fairlady over at ERL Motorwerx, located at 51C. Benitez St. Horseshoe Village, Quezon City (Telephone: 413-3911), for the fabrication of the intake manifold for the Solex-Mikuni twin-side draft carburetors. Fortunately, a fellow Fairlady roadster enthusiast sent me pictures of his custom intake manifold fabrication to help me with the design.

I can't wait to check-out ERL's stainless steel custom intake manifold with TIG weld. Hopefully, it'll be worth the P12,000 price tag!

2007-12-18T22:19:00.000+08:00

Twin side Solex 40 PHH Type T

I finally was able to buy a set of Solex 40 PHH twin side draft carburetors over at Ichi Ban Motor Parts in Banawe (Telephone: 732-1770/732-1406). I bought the carburetors for P6,000 with the aluminum trumpets (P750 a piece x 4), gaskets (P250 a piece x 2), rubber tubes, and linkages included! Sweet deal! Now the only problem is the intake manifold!

These Solex 40 PHH Type T carburetors are OEM for Toyota as you can see the old Toyota symbol together with the serial number (21100-88254 and 21100-88255) on the sticker. But these will also work with any other carbureted engine.
The owner of Ichi Ban Motor Parts told me that the carbs have been cleaned over at QC Tires of which the owner (Mr. Orly) is an expert in tuning Webers and Solex's. The fittings have also been refinished. The previous owner installed the carbs on his Sprinter's 3K (1200cc) engine, which was too small for the Solex 40 PHH's. The engine was running too rich and was impossible to tune. Hopefully the Fairlady's R16 (1600cc) engine will be just right for the twin carbs.
Tomorrow I'll be going to ERL Motorwerx located at 51 C. Benitez St. Cubao, Q.C. to have the intake manifold custom built. I hope they're good and with a reasonable price. I'll be keeping my fingers crossed!
The sight of twin side draft carburetors is indeed something to look at over coffee in the morning! I can't wait to hear its symphony! I'll also keep an eye out for air socks.

2007-12-14T21:38:00.000+08:00

Next Project: Twin Sidedraft Carburetors

Solex or Weber? That is the question! I also need an intake manifold...preferably an original one. If not, I'll just have to settle for a custom made steel manifold.

2007-12-10T10:46:00.001+08:00

New Pedal Pads, Dashboard Rustproofing, and Hood Repair

I recently bought new old stock pedal pads for the brake and clutch pedal. I bought them from Fernando's Auto Supply in Aurora Blvd. in Cubao for P28 a piece for a total of 56! You can't get it cheaper than that! The size is perfect since the pads are narrow, which gives enough space for my foot to reach the gas pedal without hitting the brake pedal.

The simple design also looks good and goes well with the original gas pedal style. But the most important thing is its much safer now...before I used to drive without pads, which was quite dangerous.

I also coated the dashboard with black enamel (Boysen) to prevent the spreading of rust underneath. The cockpit also looks much cleaner now.

I also had the hood release cable replaced and the hook realigned. I bought a new one from Fernando's Auto Supply as well. Finally, the hood stays closed even when the Fairlady goes over bumpy roads!

2007-12-10T10:30:00.000+08:00

New Chrome Lug Nuts

At last I was able to find the correct size of lug nuts for the Fairlady. The size is 7/16ths x 20, which is quite hard to hand here in the Philippines, since we use the metric scale instead of inches. Each nut costs P25 for a total of P400 for the 16 pieces. I bought them at Bigway Hardware store along Aurora Blvd. in Cubao.

Not bad at all for the price! I installed the new lug nuts myself, which was really good exercise especially on a hot day! But it was worth it!

The wheel looks much better with the chrome lug nuts and also the threads are protected by the closed design from water and dirt. Now all I need to do is have all the steel wheels chromed!

2007-12-02T21:16:00.000+08:00

Next Project: Weber 40 DCOE Sidedrafts!

I'm currently looking for a similar type of twin sidedraft weber/solex/mikuni carburetors. The sidedrafts pictured are 45mm. These are too much for the R16 engine so I'm looking for a smaller, but equally potent 40mm carburetors.

Dear Santa...I hope you read this blog!

2007-11-30T20:10:00.000+08:00

Restoration Update: Soft Top Replacement

Here are some more pictures of the soft top being made. The soft top structure has been adjusted to fit the new canvas. I'm really impressed on how the soft top makers studied first the mechanism before ripping the old canvas to shreds.

The Finished Product

At last the soft top is finished. The craftsmanship is excellent regardless of the price. I highly recommend the shop for its high quality of service and speed of delivery (it only took four days to finish the magnificent tan soft top). I'm really satisfied! I can't wait to driver the Fairlady around!

One really satisfied customer here!

2007-11-20T15:09:00.000+08:00

Repairs, Maintenance, and Soft Top Replacement

Today I went to Terry Yamat Machine Shop in Quezon City to have the starter mount re-threaded. A few days ago I noticed that the bolt on the mount had come loose and as I was trying to tighten it up...it would always slip. The threads on the bolt were okay, but on the mount it was a different story. The problem is that to re-thread the starter mount...the transmission would need to be taken down, which is a really expensive "operation." The problem is that in order to disassemble the tranny...the engine has to be removed first...really bad and really expensive.

With my fingers crossed I met up with the owner of the machine shop. After some "strategizing" he decided to re-thread the mount along with the tranny using a steel bolt. Since the tranny and starter mount were aluminum...threading the bolt into the mount and tranny would be a bit more easier than if both were iron castings. The only problem is I don't know about the rusting properties of combining steel and aluminum. But at least the starter is now secured...one less thing to worry about. Cost was P280.

Then I went to a Caltex gas station to have the fittings/zerks greased. Cost was P210.

After which, I went to Seatmakers Auto Interiors shop along Boni Serrano to have the soft top replaced...FINALLY! I actually can't wait to see the finished product. Instead of Black, I chose Tan for the canvas and Beige for the interior lining. I also had the gear lever added up with a layer of insulation to keep the hot air from coming into the cockpit. Cost will be at P4,500.

2007-06-07T11:32:00.000+08:00

Local Source of Vintage Car Era Spare Parts:

A neighbor of mine and fellow vintage car enthusiast told me that there's a shop in Greenhills area that sells vintage era parts (60's-70's). The shop is located at "Filipinas Chemical Corporation" LGI Building near Allied Bank (across Unimart Ortigas in Greenhills). The telephone numnber is (02)721-3971. I'll take a trip there when I get back from Cebu. Can't wait! I need to buys a good looking oil pressure gauge and maybe a working analog clock.

2007-06-04T16:23:00.000+08:00

Restoration Update

Interchanged radiator cap with reservoir cap to stop leak at the filler neck:

Replaced piston and gasket of clutch slave to stop leak:

2007-06-02T10:14:00.000+08:00

Restoration Update:

Cleaned engine bay and overhauled (again) radiator core:

Undercoating for rust protection:

Cut out rust in luggage rack and installed heat insulating material:

Cut out rust in engine bay and coated with anti-rust:

Installed insulating material under the dashboard:

Cut out rust from left and right rear fenders and coated with anti-rust and new paint:

Other works:

Replaced coolant (Caltex Extended Life Coolant), paint touch up on body

I drove the Fairlady a few days ago along the highway and engine response was great! Acceleration was really good! I could still keep up with the fast traffic. Fortunately, I still don't have any problems during start-ups/warm-ups. The transmission though is a bit noisy whenever I change gears...must be the synchros getting worn. Clutch pedal travel is a bit short, but I got used to it. Next stop: a new soft-top cover!

2007-03-24T19:30:00.000+08:00

Restoration Update

This morning I left Project Time Machine at Mang Rene's shop...R&R. They specialize in painting, mechanicals, and aircon repairs. I was actually surprised when I entered the shop. Most probably eighty percent of the cars there were Mercedes Benz (there was a white 1971 SEL in MINT condition - wow!). I think he's really good in restoration work and I hope that the Fairlady will be in good hands.

Here's the list of things the shop will be doing:
1. Overhaul the radiator, fix leaks, and repaint (black).
2. Install heat insulation material on the firewall under the dash.
3. Cut out rust and apply undercoating.
4. Fix clutch pedal bracket.

Additional things to do (still to be updated):
1. Replace soft top cover
2. Install heat insulation material on entire cabin including transmission well.

I hope everthing goes according to plan. Contact number for the shop: 724-6445 (look for Nemesio Soriano)

2007-03-22T22:28:00.001+08:00

Restoration Update: Disc Brake Overhaul

After sitting for two months, the front left disc brake finally froze. I decided to have the front disc brakes overhauled. The calipers, cylinders, and hydraulic pistons were full of dirt and gunk that the mechanic had to use the wire brush equipped grinder to clean the metal surface of the brake parts. It was no surprise that the piston seals (outer and inner) were worn and some were even torn apart due to old age. I had to go find the parts and fortunately I was able to locate a shop, which had the exact part number for the seals (part number: RP TCL TC 317). Even better...I got each pair for P75! What a deal! I bought four pairs to replace all the seals for the hydraulic pistons.

Note: The store where I bought the seals is Motormaster Inc. 1277 C.M. Recto Avenue, Manila. Telephone: 254-8707, 254-8761, 254-9226, 254-9164, 254-9225

One of the cylinders already cleaned. Note the "Dunlop" (above) and "Sumitomo" (below) markings on the caliper.

One of the hydraulic pistons already cleaned...still in good shape after more than forty years of braking!

One of the calipers already cleaned. Note the "MK2" marking on the left side of the caliper. It's cool to know that this caliper design is the same that's used in the Jaguar E-Type!

All the brake parts already cleaned and ready for the new seals.

The brake pads also had to be sanded since they were a bit too tight on the calipers, which prevents the pads from retracting with ease. I also had the bridge tube on the left caliper replaced, since the mechanic discovered a crack in one of the inlets, which leaked brake fluid. I also had the rear drum brakes adjusted, since one of the parts in the left brake got dislodged (that was quite a scare!).

So far the performance of the front disc brakes are better than before. Pedal pressure is firmer now thanks also to the adjustment of the rear brakes. Stopping power is better and the good thing is that when I brake hard, the Fairlady doesn't steer left or right anymore due to brake bias. I hope the brake system doesn't give me anymore problems...especially when driving at 100kph!

2007-03-18T21:29:00.000+08:00

Restoration Update

(Various pictures of restoration work)

I'm back again from Cebu. I fired up the Fairlady this morning...ONE CLICK! The engine is indeed a sweetheart! Even the idling is good...not to mention the exhaust has no smoke. The only problem now is that the front right disc brake is stuck. I'll have to go to the Autosport tomorrow to have the Dunlop MKII Sumitomo calipers overhauled. It's better to be safe than sorry...especially when you're going 100kph along C5 highway and suddenly there's 12 wheeler truck swerving to catch the exit gate. I hope there are still repair kits for the Dunlop designed caliper...yikes!

But still...the engine is a real delight!

2006-12-24T09:01:00.000+08:00

Fairlady Engine, Transmission, and Differential Servicing

Replaced engine, transmission, and differential oil two days ago. I used Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 for the engine...as usual (1 Gallon + 1 liter). As for the tranny and differential, I switched from Mobil to Conoco since I wanted to try it out if it would make a difference. Price wise, the Conoco is a bit more expensive than the Mobil oils so I hope it's worth it. For the transmission, I used Conoco 80W-90 gear oil (API-GL5) and for the differential I used Conoco SAE 140 (API-GL4) oil. The mechanic at the auto shop as well as several Datsun Fairlady roadster owners recommended that I use SAE 140 oil for the differential to lessen the gear noise and to better protect the differential gears during high speed operation. But in the www.311s.org website, the recommended differential oil is 90W. I'll have to evaluate the performance of the SAE 140. The good thing is that it's really hot here in the Philippines, so the 140 weight wouldn't "freeze-up."

Driving impressions: For the engine, I've been using Magnatec since I bought the Fairlady and I'm really impressed in its performance. So far no smoke from the exhaust, start-ups are much easier even during the mornings, and oil consumption isn't an issue, but there's a small leak in the engine. For the tranny, the Conoco 80W-90 is the same with Mobil's 80W-90. Shifting is still light without much noise. I'll have to evaluate this in the long-run. For the differential, the SAE 140 will be much thicker than the 90W and 80W-90 I used previously. I haven't noticed any difference during standing starts. I'll have to see what happens when I'm driving down the highway at high speed. Hopefully the thicker 140 weight will better protect the gears during long operations. In the future I might switch to a 85W-140 differential oil...that might be better.

2006-12-15T14:23:00.000+08:00

Caltex Extended Life Coolant

Today, I decided to replace the coolant in the roadster. It's been a year since the coolant was last drained and replaced. I used Caltex's Extended Life Coolant, which seems an ok choice, since it's also used by Ford, Jaguar, Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagen, Audi, etc plus it's also affordable at P240 a liter. Based from the specification chart at the back, the maximum service interval for this coolant is five years for passenger cars...not bad at all.

So I drained the old coolant, which was, by the way, alreay brownish in color - must be from the rust and other crud in the cooling system. The old greenish color of the coolant wasn't as visible as it used to be...it's already been dilluted. Then I poured water into the filler neck to wash out some of the left over crud in the system. Next is I mixed Caltex's Extended Life Coolant with water - about 30% coolant concentrate and 70% water. After which I started the engine and checked for leaks. I'll test drive the roadster later to check whether the coolant is doing it's duty...I hope!

I also replaced the fuel line from the fuel filter to the carburetor...the old one has started cracking...must be due to the heat and vibration. The other day I also cleaned the fuel filter using carburetor cleaner. So far engine start-ups and idle are much better. My next mission is to have the tranny and differential fluid checked and if the budget permits...replaced.

2006-12-11T22:42:00.000+08:00

Restoration Update:

Finally I'm back home after a two month stint in film school.

I started the roadster this morning... after two or three engine revolutions the R16 started with no fuzz or hesitation. There wasn't any blue smoke from the exhaust, which is a good sign indeed. I adjusted the engine idle to lower RPM. Also had to bleed the clutch system. The clutch pedal bottoms out, but it still disengages the tranny. I'll have it checked one of these days.

Then I took her for a ride after lunch. Brakes were also ok, but with a hint of stuck-up on the right front caliper. I had a blast driving with the top down...the air was cool and it was windy. Had a great time with my Fairlady.

Will have to replace the transmission and differential fluid soon. Tranny still has this whine. Engine oil change is also due.

Well at least the roadster is driveable and the engine is still strong. I was tempted to open up the throttle :)

2006-10-10T22:11:00.000+08:00

Restoration Update:

1. New clutch master cylinder rebuild kit (P200)
2. Cleaned clutch master cylinder
3. Flushed and replaced clutch fluid (P70 for DOT3 brake fluid)
4. Repaired leak in rear copper brake line and topped up brake reservoir
5. Greased distributor cam lobe (Total's MP3 grease)
6. Cleaned carburetor intake with carburetor cleaner spray
7. Checked transmission fluid level: Normal

2006-09-27T21:00:00.000+08:00

Rust Prevention - Update on the restoration projects:

1. Had the stock steel wheels stripped of paint and bondo, sanded, coated with anti-rush enamel, and repainted with a chrome finish acrylic paint...it does look better than the stock silver finish.

2. Had the trunk coated with anti-rust enamel also and repainted flat black.

3. Retouched paint on the body to prevent water from entering the chipped paint...it doesn't look as bad as it sounds :)

4. Cleaned carburetor assembly and fuel filter (been using Shell's V-Power fuel and so far so good).

5. Coated front and rear bumpers and overiders with anti-rust enamel and chrome finish spray paint...new nuts and bolts also.

6. Had the brake and clutch fluid flushed and the lines cleaned with carburetor spray (used Prestone DOT3 brake fluid to fill-up the brake and clutch reservoir).

7. Balanced all wheels at Autosport after repainting.

8. Reconverted the one steel wheel that had an inner tire tube to tubeless (had another hole drilled and machined...new valve stem also).

9. Removed reverse light since it wasn't hooked-up anyway and it added weight at the rear.

(Pictures to follow)

2006-07-22T19:19:00.000+08:00

Oil Filter Dilemma

The other day I decided to have the engine oil changed for the Fairlady's regular maintenance schedule (every six months). I encountered some problems with regards to finding the correct oil filter element. The two pictures above shows the used oil filter element from the R16 engine. As you can see, the metal strainer has moderately sized holes...this will come into play when the engine suddenly makes weird noises right after the change oil maintenance.

The two pictures above shows the new oil filter element I bought from an unknown auto supply shop near the house (I seriously thought I was saving some money, since I didn't have to go to the auto supply shop I usually go to, which was out of the way). The seller said that this element was inter-changeable with the old one so I bought the darn thing. Both old and new oil filter elements are made by Isuzu, but the new one is different. The metal strainer on the new one has much smaller holes when compared to the old one. I noticed this even before I had the new element installed and duly approached the mechanic if this was going to be a problem. Unfortunately, he thought it was just fine to use this kind of element. So I went with his advise, since I'm just a frustrated mechanic...he being the professional.

The change oil maintenance was finished and as I was going home, I noticed a tapping sound from the engine. I inspected it and after zip locking some loose metal tubes, the weird tapping sound was still present...sheeesh! My first worry was that it was the valves not getting enough oil for lubrication. So the next day I headed back to the auto shop and had the noise checked out. The valve cover was removed and my worst fear was realized. Oil wasn't reaching the valves and rocker arms...man! Luckily the engine didn't seize on me!

So I went to the reliable auto shop to get the CORRECT oil filter element (Isuzu C-190). Problem solved! Oil was getting to the valves as it should be and finally, that weird clanking noise was gone...but I'll keep an "ear" out just in case it returns. I even bought another one for spare and reference, but the "reliable" auto supply store has a lot in stock at the moment...hopefully for a long long time.

As far as the engine oil is concerned, the Castrol Magnatec (API-SM) 10W-40 (costs around P980) is good...so far no valve noise. I thought the 10w-40 oil was going to be too thin for the engine and valves, but so far so good. No oil smoke either...no smoke at all from the engine. I've been using Shell's V-Power fuel for a few days and I must say that it's got some more kick than Shell's discontinued Velocity fuel...better engine response (not sure if it's psychological though).

I also had the transmission and differential oil replaced with Mobil Multigrade 80W-90 gear oil. The old gear oil I used was Mobil HD90. The newer and better multigrade gear oil decreased the differential noise to as much as nill (based from my observation). And gear change is much smoother. I think the thinner 80W-90 oil offers better splash lubrication on the transmission and differential gears, thus better long-term protection. Price per liter is at P150.00 (bought four liters), which was indeed a bargain!

The lesson of the day: "Always buy at your RELIABLE auto supply store even if it's out of the way!"

2006-06-26T08:43:00.000+08:00

VIN Stamped on the Chassis

Just took a picture of the VIN (stamped on the chassis) for documentation purposes. This proves that the Fairlady is indeed a 1965 model. The only "glitch" is that the body is from a 2000/high-windshield (or a 1967.5 and up) model, which is interesting enough. Does this mean that the old "shell" was tossed and replaced with a newer 2000 body? I think so. So I guess this Fairlady is actually two cars in one. COOL!

2006-06-06T22:17:00.000+08:00

2K Toyota Carb History

I found some information leading to the 2K Toyota carburetor's history. As you can see in the chart, this type of carburetor (2K double barrel) was used in '65 to '70 Toyota Corona's with a 1900cc engine. I'm not sure if the 2K carb swap would've dramatically decreased the engine's horsepower, but people that I've talked to (one was a car shop owner with tons of experience with these kinds of vintage carbs - Webbers, Solexes, SUs, etc.) say that fuel-efficiency was greatly increased and engine tuning was much easier as compared to using the stock twin SU carbs. I've also read in forums that the stock SUs are a pain to balance right...I'll be sticking with the 2K carbs for now :)

2006-06-01T23:37:00.000+08:00

Steering Box Oil Leak

There's a slow oil leak in the steering box. It's been leaking for a few weeks now, but I only had the chance to have it looked at this morning. The mechanic cleaned up the oil from the housing and tightened the tensioner bolt. It seems that the source of the leak is there. I'll have to observe the steering box for leaks...hopefully it's solved. If not, then it'll have to be rebuilt and the oil replaced with good 'ol automotive grease. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

2006-05-31T21:51:00.000+08:00

Headlight Relay in Question: Original or Copycat?

Here are some shots of the headlight relay I was talking about in my previous post. Yes it says "BOSCH" and "Made in Germany," but I'm not pretty sure about that. It's only been three months since the relay got bust and I haven't been using the Fairlady often. Another explanation is that the thing is defective, but with BOSCH quality at stake I doubt it. The plastic used looks and feels like it's from a toy that's made in China...LOW QUALITY. And the contact points are easily bent out of shape...it does come loose when conected (this is the reason why my low to high beam has been playing tricks on me a few weeks ago). The bad thing is that it seems that counterfeit replacement parts are becoming common in the auto supply market. This is indeed dangerous...imagine driving at 100 kph when the "fake" KYB suspension collapses! That'll make anyone's day...guaranteed. Safety first!

2006-05-27T19:41:00.000+08:00

Restoration Update: Custom Steel Mesh Air Filter

Ever since I bought the Fairlady back in January, I've been driving it without an air filter! Yes I know it's bad...really really bad! Well the problem is CLEARANCE. There's only about 2.5 inches of clearance between the carburetor intake and the hood so putting a regular paper/foam air filter is impossible! The next best thing is to custom fabricate an intake plumbing to accomodate a Simota/K&N air filter which would fit right beside the intake manifold.

However I didn't have the budget for that yet so I decided to fabricate my own air filter...a steel mesh one. Of course it doesn't offer much protection from fine impurities, but it will at least keep those pebbles, leaves, and nasty destructive bits away from the internals of the carburetor...well that's the plan anyhow. Plus the steel mesh looks good on the carb...indeed a sporty touch. Fortunately, I was able to get a good quality strainer with the same diameter (give or take a few millimeters) as the intake opening of the carb. It also seems to clear the hood by the narrowest of margins. I only had to cut the handle and the rim with a dremel grinder to finish the "custom fabrication." At least now there's some level of protection (hopefully) for the air intake...it's definitely better than nothing. And at P25 for the "custom" steel mesh air filter...it's not that bad :)

Now the testing begins. I started up the engine with the air filter in place and it seems to be doing well...it didn't get dislodged. Remember the air filter is just "clipped" into place. There are no screws or brackets to hold it down unto the carb. But I'll have to do some more testing to see if it'll "pass" normal driving conditions...as well as the notorious "EDSA Pothole Test." Hopefully it'll hold without further modifications. The only problem is it's already raining outside! Crap!

2006-05-25T14:27:00.000+08:00

Repair Update: Headlight Relay

I've been having some problems with the headlights and gauge lighting recently. Sometimes it would turn on...and most of the time it would turn on and then die out...luckily no accidents. Also, the hi-to-low beam and vice versa wouldn't work at times...incoming motorists remind me of that often.

But today I decided to end the troublesome "glitch" once and for all. As it turns out, the headlight relay was the culprit. The disturbing thing is that it's a new three month old Bosch relay that's even "Made in Germany." The electrician also discovered several blown fuses in the new fuse box. Darn it! What seems to be causing these electrical buggers??? Voltage regulator? Alternator? A ground in the system? A short? I guess I'll have to bring some spare fuses just to be safe. I wouldn't want to be stranded again along the highway at night...especially when it's the rainy season now! Hopefully the glitches have been "cured" with the replacement of the relay and fuses...I trust Project T.M.'s auto-electrician (in picture: at the driver's side door). Cost: Fuses - P20; Labor - P150; Relay - P100

2006-05-23T20:04:00.000+08:00

Rust Problem Pictures

I took some pictures of the rust problem that has been "infesting" my Fairlady. Hopefully by June I'll be able to get an estimate of the cost of the "rust job." I'll have to do it ASAP, since it's already the rainy season!!! Darn!

Engine Compartment, Driver's Side (Beside the so called "Death Spear")

Engine Compartment, Driver's Side (Beneath Brake M.C.)

Trunk (Right Side: Fuel Filler Neck)

Left Rear Fender Well

Right Rear Fender Well

2006-05-05T21:42:00.000+08:00

Remembering the Past: The First Day I Got to Know Project T.M.

Me (with the HUGE grin) and the previous owner

January 10, 2006 was the point of no return. This was the date I would be bringing home a 1965 Datsun Fairlady I named "Project T.M." I had the day all planned-out. In the morning, I would go to the bank to withdraw the needed funds. Then I'll proceed to Cubao to take the long commute going to Rizal province (I didn't have a co-driver lined-up at that time). When I get to the owner's house...I'll pay him my "dues," sign the papers and then, for lack of a better word, scoot! It's as simple as that.

As it turned out, it was much better than I had expected. My friend (thanks Mig!), who's also a car enthusiast, called me up and offered to drive the other car as I drove Project T.M. home. This was great indeed. I didn't have to take the long commute to Rizal while carrying all that cash in my pocket...a scary and risky afterthought. So I picked-up my friend, had lunch, and drove straight to the owner's house, which was forty-five minutes drive.

As we were entering the gate, there it was...the small "Coca-cola Red" roadster with the top down "sitting" on the driveway ready to be driven away by yours truly. The excitement was just unbearable! Fortunately, it only took about half an hour to draw up the deed of sale and have it signed. I even got see some of the restoration projects of the seller...I believe he had a Triumph TR3 and TR6, a Fiat Roadster with VW engine swap, an 80's TVR coupe, and a vintage race car with custom fiber glass body and a roll cage...not a bad collection indeed!

Well now comes the hard part...driving my newly acquired Fairlady home. It's roughly about a twenty kilometer drive through uneven, dusty, and pothole infested roads, not to mention bumper to bumper traffic and an ambient temperature that could let the asphalt fry some sunny side-ups along that way. This would probably bog down any forty one year old car, but hopefully not the one I'll be driving today...please!

The engine was purring like a sweet heart...no exhaust smoke...which is a good sign. First impression...the cockpit is a bit cramped and I had to contort to some degree to fit my already small frame into the seat and pedal positions. Then I engage first gear...well I try to anyhow. The gears are a bit hard to differentiate from each other...it seems third gear is first and reverse...well it's missing. But that's not the worst part...wait 'til you get to the brakes...well it's also missing! I kept pressing down on the brake pedal as hard as I could, but the brakes wouldn't freakin' engage! And that's just at 5 kmh! But finally I'm rolling down the road...slowly but surely. It was a good day to go driving...slightly overcast and a bit cool and windy. Traffic was moderate...not bad considering that the Fairlady had brakes similar to a pedicab with five people on it...scary man!

Well inch by inch...one kilometer after another...and a sore right foot after an hour of driving, I finally made it...but only just. I had my fair share of scary moments...especially when I almost T-boned another car when I was crossing an intersection desperately trying to avert a disaster by stepping on the brakes with all my might! But all in all, it was a good drive home...no freak accidents, collisions, injuries, and most important of all...my Fairlady made it without a hitch. I only had to refuel at a Petron station and that was it...no other stops on the way home. Mission accomplished! Or so I thought. Now the restoration begins!

2006-04-30T00:14:00.000+08:00

Took a shot of the rear end for documentation purposes. Both bumpers (front and rear) need to be rechromed. As you can see, the fuel cap, which should be located at the rear of the Fairlady (on the right side of the license plate), is missing. The current location is at the rear right fender well. The current location of the fuel cap is actually better since the rear end of the Fairlady becomes uncluttered. I'm not sure if the fuel cap location has been altered, but I'll definitely stick with it. The soft top is still in fairly good shape...apart from some small tears. So far the best soft top cleaner has been MC Wax. I've tried Armor All, but the finish becomes patchy...some areas are glossy and some are not. With MC Wax, the finish is even. The reverse light (left side of the rear bumper) is still not functioning. I'll need to buy a reverse switch and have it installed in the shift lever...parts are hard to find and will need to be ordered from the U.S.! Bummer! Well at least the rear brake lights and both rear signal lights are still working :)

2006-04-29T22:59:00.000+08:00

Some More Interior Shots

I posted some more shots of the interior just to document the restoration project:
1. Toggle switches (3-way switch) - status: all are still functional
2. Center console - status: chrome and leather are still in good condition
3. Glove box - status: push-button lock still working, applied RC1 (locally made version of WD-40...it's quite effective against rust) unto the locking mechanism to keep it from locking-up
4. Map light (rewired with a new switch) - status: still functional...surprisingly
5. Wooden shift knob (not OEM) - status: applied clear epoxy unto the underside to keep it from popping-out from the shift lever...very annoying (and quite dangerous)

Today I covered some of the holes (with aluminum tape) in the firewall to keep the heat (from the engine) from reaching the "cockpit." I hope this would lessen the heat inside the cabin, since it tends to be "sizzling" inside especially when the soft/hard top is in place. I also sprayed RC1 unto some areas of the the firewall (both sides) to keep it from rusting severly, but I'll definitely need to spray on an anti-rust coating just to be safe (I found a spray-on type at Ace Hardware...I'll definitely look into that). I also inspected some key areas of the body and applied RC1 accordingly:
1. Engine bay - beneath the brake and clutch master cylinders and alongside the steering column
2. Left and right front fenders - underneath both front fenders
3. Hood scoop - underneath at the sides of the air inlet
4. Grill - at the bottom of the grill where it's bolted unto the body
5. Driver's side and passenger side doors - at the bottom and along the hinges
6. Trunk - applied RC1 to most of the area
7. Soft top frame - hinges and support beams
8. Steering column - leading to the firewall

I'll need to have all the rusty bits cut-out from the body and to apply undercoating unto the underside of the Fairlady...and that's got to be done SOON! The problem is: I still don't have the budget! Well I guess I'll have to make do with RC1 for now (it's cheaper than WD-40 and it works just as well - Go Philippines!).

Tomorrow's plan: I'm drivin' Project T.M.! Sweet!