Friday, May 16, 2014

Retainer Bearing - Main Shaft - Cracked Mounting Points

Bearing Retainer - Need to replace this part for the transmission overhaul

Wednesday, March 26, 2014

R16 3-Main-Bearing Crankshaft

Overhaul Update: Crankshaft Main Journal

Thursday, March 20, 2014

Final Vintage Race for 2013

This was the last race for the 'Lady before the R16 engine decided to call it quits. The engine and transmission are currently being overhauled. Engine had oil starvation issues during the last race, which disintegrated the main bearings and other components.

An exciting last race still - 2013 Season, Leg 3, Heat 2. Enjoy!

Friday, February 14, 2014

Final Leg of the Vintage Racing Series for 2013

At the Clark International Speedway - Class C/D - First Heat

Friday, November 15, 2013

Vintage Race Preparations

Race Preparations for the last MSCC Vintage Race

1. Checked and adjusted valve clearance - 0.014"
2.Greased suspension and steering fittings
3. Fixed left front disc brake leak - new repair kit by TCL Products Mfg. Inc. stock no. 317
4. Lubricated twin carburetor butterfly valve shafts
5. Checked engine compression

 Much smoother idle now...and quieter too.
 Luckily, I had a spare caliper repair kit...old one has been damaged.

 A good day to fix the Fairlady up.
Disc brake rotor seems to be in good condition...surface is still smooth.
This is one sweet vintage compression gauge. Thank you for letting me use it sir OD.

Friday, October 11, 2013

A Fine Day for Vintage Racing

A great day for racing the Fairlady at the Clark International Speedway. I had so much fun and I learned a lot as well. Improved my time by about 9 seconds from the previous leg...really happy about that result!

My best time (full track of 4.2km) was during Race 2 with a laptime of 1:53.525 on lap 3.

Saturday, September 28, 2013

Vintage Race Prep

Finish up the race preparations for the Fairlady for this weekend's Manila Sports Car Club Vintage Racing Series 2nd Leg

1. Changed the engine oil - Ultron Rallye 10W-40 semi-synthetic oil
2. Changed transmission and differential oil - Spirax S2 90 GL4
3. Greased suspension and steering fittings
4. New Achilles Platinum tires (fronts only)
5. New rear brake pads (riveted for extra safety)
6. Flushed and bled entire brake system - Wurth DOT4 brake fluid
7. Cleaned air and fuel filters
8. Cleaned spark plugs, rotor, and distributor cap contacts
9. Replaced steelies with light alloy AME mesh wheels and had them balanced
10. Checked tire pressures
11. Adjusted pilot jets, carburetor balance, and idle

When I was parking the Fairlady after a drive, I noticed that the brakes had engaged during reverse...this was the culprit.
The pads had gotten loose from the metal shoe holding it...probably due to water entering the brake drums and its age (must have been five-year-old pads). This happened just a few days before the next vintage race...lucky I was still at home and not on the road...or worse...on the track!
Left side brake drums...pads also dislodged from the shoe.
 Disassembled right drum brake...brake cylinder seals were still good so I didn't overhaul them anymore.
 The mechanic had the new brake pads riveted for extra safety during racing conditions. Helps a lot in keeping the pads in place especially with the extended heat cycles whenever I race the Fairlady.

 Had the gear oil changed in the diff...feels much better after all the oils had been changed.
 I also inspected the underchassis for loose bolts or cracks...didn't find any upon visual inspection. There's a minor oil leak coming from the steering box.
 "X" cross-member looks good and the welds are intact.

 Even with the 6.5" wide AME meshies, there's still ample clearance inside the rear wheel wells even on hard cornering. Clearance is about an inch on either side of the wheels...offset is pretty much perfect for the roadster.
 Spirax S2 GL4 90W for the diff and transmission...nice clean dino oil for an almost 50 year old car.
I got to clean the spark plugs as well a few days before the race just to make sure everything's ready. Burn is pretty much spot on...a bit rich on idle, but at full throttle power delivery is pretty smooth and responsive. Ceramic isolators were free of soot which indicated good burn for all cylinders.
 New brake pads...same ones used on the Toyota Lite Ace. The mechanic recommended that I use Type R or Bendix for the next set...especially that I'm racing regularly. I got to use these set on the recent race and their not really that bad...although I could use better ones for extra safety.

 New drum brake locks as well.
 The mechanic installing the new brake pads.
 New holes had to be made to correctly align the pads to the backing plate for better brake pad movement...a more even spread on the drum when braking.

New brake pads ready for action - four rivets per pad.